Overview of exhaust and supply ventilation systems of a private house, do-it-yourself installation and installation

Ventilation in a private house is needed. How to carry it out competently in residential and utility rooms, in the basement, on the roof? Which system to choose and how to calculate the ventilation of a private house? After reading this article, you can solve the problem of ventilation of a private house with your own hands.

Principle of operation and types of traction

The most popular among the owners of suburban private houses is still the principle of ventilation, based on natural draft. The operation of the system is based on physical laws: warm and humid air rushes upward, cold air enters its place. The owners of a private house only need to install ventilation openings for the outflow and flow of air. The ventilation of septic tanks in private houses, sheds and cellars works according to the same principle.

The massive use of natural ventilation is due to its affordability and simplicity. However, the other side of the coin is work instability. Therefore, for residential premises there is a more modern solution based on the use of mechanisms:

• mechanical exhaust ventilation, the principle of ventilation in a private house, in which the exhaust air is removed to the street using a fan. Fresh air is sucked in through specially equipped air inlets, open vents or slots in the enclosing structures;
• mechanical supply ventilation, in which filtered air of the required temperature is forced into the house. Overpressure is created, under the action of which the exhaust air is forced out through the exhaust ducts into the street;
• mechanical supply and exhaust system. Fully calculated ventilation of a private house with automated air exchange.

In private houses of a large area, it is advisable to organize a centralized ventilation system, in which all equipment is concentrated in a single point, and air channels diverge around the house.

Natural ventilation

The easiest way is to organize natural ventilation of a private house with your own hands. A vertical exhaust duct is laid from each ventilated room, which ends above the highest point of the roof of a private house. Typically, exhaust ducts are installed:

• in the kitchen and bathroom, where the release of moisture, heat and odors is maximized;
• closed rooms: storage rooms, dressing rooms, laundry rooms, if they are connected with living quarters. If the doors open into the kitchen or corridor, a supply valve is installed in the wall;
• the boiler room is equipped with a ventilation duct and a supply valve;
• in rooms separated from the nearest exhaust duct by 3 or more doors;
• starting from the second floor, if the staircase is separated by doors, ventilation ducts are pulled from the corridor or all the rooms listed above. If the stairs are not separated by doors, inflow valves and ventilation ducts are equipped in each room.

According to the rules, it is necessary to arrange ventilation under the floor of a private house made of wood and a basement, removing radon gas, hazardous to health, through additional channels. Underfloor ventilation is indispensable for wooden private houses, this will extend the life of the floorboards and prevent them from rotting. It is useless to install exhaust ventilation ducts from the attic of a private house, since a small height difference cannot provide traction.

The supply of fresh air, on the contrary, needs to be organized in the living rooms. The best way is to install a supply device (valve). The flow rate can be adjusted and the house is not left without fresh air.

If there is no inflow in the house, then the air will not be drawn out! This must be taken into account when organizing natural ventilation in a private house.

According to the rules of 55.13330.2011 in private residential buildings, ventilation must provide a single air exchange from the living quarters, 60 cubic meters of air per hour from the kitchen and 25 cubic meters from the toilet and bathroom. In auxiliary rooms, the air exchange rate is 0.2 or more per hour.

Selection of the cross-section of ventilation ducts

The smallest acceptable diameter of the air duct for natural ventilation of a private house made of brick, stone or wood is 150 mm. The cross-sectional area of ​​such a pipe is about 0.016 sq.m. If in a private house it is planned to install rectangular or square air ducts for the exhaust ventilation system, the side length must be at least 100 mm. If a height difference of at least 3 meters is ensured, such an air duct passes about 30 cubic meters of air per hour through itself. You can improve the throughput by increasing one of the values:

• length of the vertical exhaust duct;
• diameter or cross-sectional area of ​​the duct.

If the length of the vertical section is less than 200 cm, there will be no traction. When conducting ventilation in a private house, one should take into account the height and shape of the roof, the number of storeys of the house and the presence of an attic.

Vertical exhaust ducts for all rooms on the same floor must be of the same height. As a rule, the diameter and cross-sectional shape are also chosen the same, it is easier to assemble such a structure.

With a small number of exhaust ducts, it is impractical to connect horizontal air ducts to one common line, this reduces the draft. It is convenient to hide the blocks in load-bearing walls, in special hollow concrete blanks. You can lay ventilation in a private brick house in specially laid out rectangular channels 14x27 cm or square 14x14 cm.

The outer stone block of ventilation ducts is supported on a reinforced concrete slab or foundation. In light frame or wooden houses, channels are made of plastic or galvanized pipes, which are placed in a single box.

In order to increase the performance of the channel without changing the height, it is necessary to increase its cross-sectional area. Channels made of different materials have different throughput, the smoother the inner walls, the higher it is, this must be borne in mind when calculating ventilation in a private house.

Table 1. The performance of a stone ventilation duct with a cross-sectional area of ​​204 sq. Cm.

Sewerage ventilation

Ventilation of a sewer riser in a private house will prevent the spread of unpleasant gas that accumulates in the pipes. For the removal of gases, ventilation of septic tanks is also installed in private houses.

Rules for the construction of a ventilation riser in a private house:

• the outlet of the exhaust duct for sewer ventilation should be located 1 meter above the roof of a private house, it is not covered with a cap;
• if there are several sewer pipes in a private house, the ventilation pipes are used the same (11 cm (for two or more floors) or 5 cm);
• it is forbidden to combine the sewer ventilation of a private house and other premises;
• from the head of the chimney to the window must be at least 3.5 meters, from the ground - at least 4 m;
• it is not advisable to install the pipe under the eaves of the roof, as in winter it can be broken by ice.

In sewer drains, fermentation and decay processes are constantly taking place, helping to decompose the contents. These processes are possible only in the presence of oxygen. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate the cesspool in a private house. Ventilation of the septic tank and sewage system in a private house is drawn through plastic pipes. A special channel is left for the pipe outlet during design.

How to arrange ventilation of the sewage system in a private house if the pipe cannot be installed? For this, vacuum valves have been developed - the device is mounted in the house at the outlet of the sewer riser.

Ventilation of a septic tank in a private house is equipped with PVC pipes. A pipe for sewer ventilation in a private house is installed vertically into the roof of a septic tank and is brought out half a meter above the soil level. If the cesspool in a private house has not gone through waterproofing, it does not need ventilation, since air penetrates through numerous cracks.

Foundation ventilation

Ventilation of the foundation of a private house is provided by a ventilation system. Air vents are holes in the basement of the building, the number and size of which depend on the area and location of the house.

For 2.5 running meters, the walls are usually installed 1 duct with dimensions of 10x15 cm or 25x30 cm.If a private house is located in a lowland and is not blown by winds, the ventilation of the foundation should be strengthened and the number of ducts should be doubled. So that animals do not get into the underground, the vents are covered with nets or gratings. Before the onset of cold weather, all ventilation of the foundation of a private house is blocked.

Basement ventilation

The heated basement of a private house is ventilated just like any other room. A natural draft duct or a supply valve is installed in each cellar compartment. If there is a laundry or sauna in the basement, an exhaust duct is drawn from it.

If the basement is not in use, it is necessary to place air inlets and one exhaust duct in the corners. It is advisable to equip cold basements with a mechanical hood.

The ventilation of the basement of a private house is equipped according to the same principle. Many owners are limited only by the air system. But such a floor ventilation scheme is in many cases insufficient, radioactive radon and dampness are collected in the basement of a private house. Especially often this picture is typical for winter time, when the air vents for ventilation of the basement of a private house are tightly closed.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation and how to eliminate them

Before installing natural ventilation in a private house, consider its disadvantages:

• draft depends on the air temperature outside and in the house, the direction and strength of the wind, humidity;
• if the channel cross-sectional area is incorrectly selected, the exhaust ventilation system in a private house will not work;
• the system is practically not regulated;
• in summer, traction may be completely absent;
• in the cold season, cravings increase, taking the heat out of the house. In some cases, up to 35% of the heat is lost through natural ventilation;
• it is necessary to insulate natural ventilation in a private house.

Despite the disadvantages, you can make your own ventilation in a private house quite effective.

It should be understood that the scheme of natural ventilation of private houses that has existed for decades is able to serve only bathrooms and kitchens. Living rooms are ventilated mainly through open vents.

Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to provide 2 conditions: the flow of air and the unhindered passage of air throughout the house.

To solve the first problem, there is a wide range of supply valves on the market:

• window;
• wall.

Installation of a window supply valve

Window valves are mounted on the sash; it is enough to simply equip this type of supply ventilation yourself in a private house. You will need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• sharp knife;
• the ruler is not shorter than 35 cm.

Work progress:

1. We cut out a standard seal from the fixed frame at the place where the valve is supposed to be installed.
2. We install the seal that comes with the valve.
3. We mark the location of the valve on the flap, it should coincide with the replaced section.
4. We remove the section of the seal and on the flap.
5. In the resulting gap, we mount the valve plugs. They must fit completely into the slot so that the valve can be subsequently attached to them.
6. The valve is glued to double-sided tape and fixed to the fasteners with self-tapping screws.
7. A seal is inserted between the fasteners.

Now you can check the valve in action. A window inlet valve has several advantages:

• easy to install;
• during installation, all enclosing structures remain intact and intact;
• you can regulate the intensity of the inflow or completely block it.

And only one drawback: in severe frosts, it can freeze over. But there are branded models that do not have this drawback. You will have to pay more for them.

Another model of a window valve is a handle valve. A very convenient device, the installation of which will have to be entrusted to a specialist.

Installing a wall inlet valve

The wall valve is also a fairly convenient solution for natural supply ventilation of a private house. It works without a power source, is equipped with noise insulation and a filter, thanks to its labyrinth shape, it lowers the speed of air movement.

However, the ease of installation and low cost makes these devices very popular. When choosing a valve, attention should be paid to the operating temperature range, as well as the dimensions of the indoor unit and the flow capacity. As a rule, a valve is installed between the heating radiator and the window sill. So the cold air first descends onto the battery, warms up and only then enters the room. Therefore, it is important to determine the size of the device. A fairly popular location for the valve is at the top of the wall near the window.

Required tools for installing a supply ventilation valve in a private house:

• perforator with a special nozzle for drilling holes. You can do with a thick drill, but the process will be more laborious;
• sealant;
• level;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• sharp knife.

The main disadvantage of wall supply valves, stopping many: to install the valve, you need to make a through hole in the wall.

The supply valve usually consists of an indoor unit, duct and external grille. The progress of work on the installation of the supply wall device:

1. Disassemble the valve if it was sold assembled and mark the location of the duct on the wall.
2. Drill a hole of the required diameter (see the instructions for the device). The ventilation pipe should have a slight slope towards the street for condensation drainage, rain drops.
3. The duct is wrapped in thermal insulation (sometimes sold already insulated) and inserted into the duct. Outside, the tube should be flush with the wall; we leave about 1 cm of protrusion in the house.
4. We fix the case inside the house, having previously installed insulation and filters in turn.
5. We attach a protective grill outside.

The valve operation is regulated by a damper.At least once a year (if the house is located in nature), the device must be disassembled and cleaned, otherwise its throughput and filtration quality will decrease.

Installation of transfer grids

Now is the time to pay attention to the movement of air currents around the house. For it to pass freely under each interior door, there must be a gap of at least 3 centimeters high. If the interior doors are equipped with thresholds and are tightly closed, transfer grilles must be installed.

In each door, the total area of ​​openings for the unimpeded movement of air must be at least 200 cubic meters for residential premises. cm.

The minimum size of the lattice in the doors of any room equipped with a natural exhaust ventilation duct is 800 cc. The transfer grilles are made of aluminum alloys and represent two frames between which horizontal blinds are attached. The transfer grilles are convenient in that, while leaving free air movement, they block the access of light and sound to the room. If for some reason the installation of the grilles is not possible, there is a simple and effective solution: holes are drilled in the lower part of the door and covered with ventilation rings. Rings can be simple, equipped with a mesh or noise-absorbing.

If there are more than 2 doors with overflow openings or grilles between the inflow point and the exhaust duct, the air movement will be slowed down.

And the most budgetary option is a door cut. A 3-4 cm strip is cut from the lower part, the cut is sealed with an end edge. Such a scheme is not suitable for bedrooms and children's rooms, since it does not provide sufficient insulation for the room.

Supplementing natural ventilation with mechanical elements

Exhaust fans in ventilation ducts and hoods in kitchens noticeably improve the work of natural ventilation in a private brick house. They are good when it is necessary to clear the air from excess moisture or odors in a short time. Intensive work is accompanied by noise and a rather high consumption of electricity.

Table 2. Characteristics of household exhaust fans from leading manufacturers

Keep in mind: the presence of a fan in the ventilation duct seriously impairs draft. Incorrect connection of the hood also negatively affects the natural exhaust ventilation system in a private house. The exhaust grille must remain open! On sale there are special grilles with a separate socket for connecting the exhaust air duct. But the drawn air can instantly enter the kitchen through the grate. Therefore, for a private house, the best way out is to make the outlet for the hood autonomous, directly to the street. It is equipped with a check valve to prevent cold air from entering the room.

Supply and exhaust mechanical ventilation

Owners of large and comfortable houses often install fully automated supply and exhaust ventilation. Its advantages are obvious:

• all air indicators in the room will clearly correspond to the calculated ones;
• the equipment works without the presence of a person;
• in case of failures, the system will signal the reasons.

The supply equipment supplies air, having previously prepared it. At the same time, the hood works, which removes the spent air masses.

The supply and exhaust unit is usually mounted in the attic, air ducts diverge from it throughout the house. Since the equipment is quite bulky, it is advisable to design it in advance. Then during construction it is possible to plan openings, niches and highways for placement.Due to the complexity and large size of such installations, they are not assembled on their own.

Ventilation insulation

We examined the question of how to install ventilation in a private house, but did not touch on an important point. Some ventilation sections of a private house need to be insulated. This applies to sections of air ducts passing through cold rooms, attics, and the street. If thermal insulation is neglected, condensation will settle on the pipe walls. Galvanized air ducts will fail faster, in frosty weather the moisture freezes, the pipe clearance decreases and ventilation stops working.

Therefore, the insulation of ventilation in a private house is mandatory. The output of the pipe through the wall must be done through an insulated sleeve.

Recommended materials:

• Minvata cheap, does not burn. At the same time, it is difficult to assemble and dumps over time;
• Foam shells easy to install, inexpensive and durable. Moreover, in the event of a fire, they burn like gunpowder;
• Polyurethane foam or polypropylene "shells" slightly more expensive than polystyrene, but more durable;
• Foamed polyethylene widely used in pipe insulation, sold in the form of split pipes of the desired section;
• Penofol withstands low temperatures, is foil-coated polyethylene foam.

Self-adhesive insulation based on polyethylene foam is very convenient. The thickness of the self-adhesive sheet is from 1 cm, if necessary, you can apply several layers on top of each other. The material is easy to assemble, withstands mechanical stress, including rodent attacks.

Video about the insulation of the ventilation pipe: